You could spend days just visiting Antoni Gaudí’s buildings, but allow time in between to mooch around a few different neighbourhoods. The Eixample is like a museum of Art Nouveau architecture, while a walk through the lanes of the Gothic quarter makes you feel as if you are in a medieval drama.
Escape the urban din on Montjüic hill, where you can take in the panoramic views while visiting the Joan Miró, Catalan Art or CaixaForum museums, as well as the Olympic Stadium and Botanic Garden.
1. Las Ramblas
The ultimate urban boulevard has been gradually changing over the last few years to adapt to the never ending stream of tourists strolling from the Plaza de Catalunya down to the sea. More mainstream shops are popping up, while traditional kiosks selling birds and other pets are being phased out.
Mime artists and buskers still liven things up, but have to stick to authorised spots. There are also plans to smarten up the pavement cafés, which currently do not come up to Barcelona’s high style standards. Halfway down, stop off at La Boquería market to remind yourself what superb fresh produce should look like.
2. Sagrada Familia Cathedral
Begun 125 years ago, Gaudí’s masterpiece is not expected to be completed for another two decades at least. The roofs are, however, nearly all in place, which should enable mass to be held in the temple from next year. Displays in the museum explain how the project has developed. Take the lift up one of the towers to get a closer look at the extraordinary decoration, as well as views across the city.
Plaça Sagrada Família
0034 93 207 3031
www.sagradafamilia.org
Open daily Oct-Mar, 9am-6pm; April-Sep, 9am-8pm
3. Picasso Museum
More than 3,500 works by the artist are exhibited in this ever-expanding museum, located in a series of medieval mansions, and the collection attracts huge crowds. Exhibits include an impressive collection of Picasso’s early work, much donated by the artist himself or his family, and show not only his changing styles but also how his relationship with Barcelona shaped his artistic development.
Carrer Montcada 15-23
0034 93 256 3000
www.museupicasso.bcn.es
Open Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm
4. FC Barcelona Museum
Considered to be the best football museum in the world, it also receives more visitors than any other museum in Catalonia. Exhibits trace the history of the club since it was founded more than a century ago, while the tour takes you onto the pitch, through the tunnel and into the changing rooms. The shop sells a mind-boggling array of Barça souvenirs.
Carrer Arístides Maillol
0034 93 496 3600
www.fcbarcelona.com
Open Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm; Sun, 10am-3pm
5. Park Güel
It is worth heading uptown to visit another of Gaudí’s creations, on a hillside overlooking Barcelona. Originally planned as a garden city, only two houses were built, one of which is now a museum.
What survives is a fascinating park where you come upon surprising sights at every turn, from the glittering mosaic lizard at the entrance to the twisting ceramic bench framing the spectacular observation deck.
Open daily, 10am till dusk
Restaurants
Agut
Traditional restaurant in the heart of the old town, which has been serving the most popular Catalan dishes since it opened in 1924. Popular with artists, actors and writers. Good value set lunch.
Carrer Gignàs 16
0034 93 315 1709
Àpat
Well-executed modern Catalan cuisine. Although the fixed-price lunch is a bargain, it is worth going à la carte for the more interesting dishes. The cool grey décor is better suited to the evening than to daytime.
Carrer Aribau 137
0034 93 439 6414
www.apat.es
Taller de Tapas
Sample a range of Catalan tapas made from goodquality produce, such as prawns from Palamós on the Costa Brava, chorizo sausages in cider, or fried artichokes.
Plaça Sant Josep Oriol 9 and Carrer Argenteria 51
0034 93 301 8020
www.tallerdetapas.com
Bars and cafés
Granja Viader (Carrer Xuclà 4-6; 0034 93 318 3486; closed Sun, Mon). Traditional café with marble tables just off the Ramblas. Renowned for its hot chocolate, it is a good place for breakfast or coffee and cake in the afternoon.
Bauma (Carrer Roger de Llúria 124; 0034 93 459 0566; closed Sat). A fug of decadence hovers over the red banquettes in this café with a restaurant attached. Stop off for something seriously restorative on the way from Gaudí’s La Pedrera to the Sagrada Familia.
Inopia (Carrer Tamarit 104; 0034 93 424 5231; closed Sun, Mon). Boisterous tapas bar opened by Albert Adrià, the younger brother of Spain’s most famous chef, Ferran Adrià. Traditional tapas such as patatas bravas are prepared using first-class ingredients. Reasonable prices, great wines by the glass, friendly service and an interesting crowd make it worth seeking out.
Premier (Carrer Provenza 236; 0034 93 532 1650). Laidback lounge bar open from breakfast time till late, with a range of Champagnes, cavas, wines and cocktails, as well as tapas and more substantial meals.
Nightlife
The narrow lanes either side of the Ramblas, in the Raval and Gòtic districts, conceal a surprising number of bars and clubs. Places are more spread out in the Eixample area, so plan where to go rather than wander around. Lots of restaurants in Barcelona turn into clubs when people have finished dinner (sometime after midnight), which is excellent news for those whose movement is impaired by killer heels.
Agua de Luna (Carrer Viladomat 211; 0034 93 410 0440). Salsa – or merengue or chachacha – your hips off at this popular and friendly club. Pitch up after midnight and dance till you drop.
Jamboree (Plaza Reial 17; 0034 93 301 7564). Popular downtown jazz club with live performances (blues and Latin as well as traditional and modern jazz) at 11pm, and dance music later on. Open every night.
Carpe Diem Lounge Club (Passeig Maritím 32; 0034 93 334 0470 ; www.cdlcbarcelona.com). Right on the beach below the Hotel Arts, this club and restaurant is footballers’ wives heaven. Lounge on the beds on the terrace and take in the glitzy scene.
Spiritual Café (Avinguda Drassanes; 0034 93 317 5256). Outdoor space in the unlikely setting of the Maritime Museum, itself located in a Gothic building. Open from May throughout the summer, with a Morocc
Main tourist office
Plaza de Catalunya 17
0034 93 285 3834
www.barcelonaturisme.com
The city council website, www.bcn.es, also provides useful information in English. Further information from the Catalan Tourist Office (020 7583 8855; www.catalunyatourism.com) or the Spanish Tourist Office (www.spain.info).
Insider's tips
# Sights and museums in Barcelona are spread out across the city, so you do need to use public transport. A T-10 ticket entitles you to 10 rides on the bus or metro, and costs €6.90. A single ticket costs €1.25 and a day ticket costs €5.25. Tourist tickets are available for periods from two to five days, from €9.60. The Barcelona Tourist Bus has two routes stopping off at major points of interest and costs €19 for one day or €23 for two days, with discounts at museums, attractions and restaurants. The Barcelona Card includes public transport, and discounts at museums, attractions and shops. From €24 for two days.
# Barcelona is busy all year, and even though new hotels open virtually every week, it is often difficult to find a room, particularly if your visit coincides with a major trade fair.
# Although it is hot and humid in August, having a long strip of beach means the city is still bearable.
# Bag snatching is rife, particularly in the very touristy areas, such as the Ramblas and the Gothic quarter. Be careful about leaving your stuff on the beach, too.
# Given the level of tourism, to get the true Barcelona experience it is worth walking a few blocks beyond the main sights, where the cafés and restaurants will be full of locals rather than other tourists.
(πηγή: www.telegraph.co.uk)
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