24 hours in Amsterdam's historic center

Like a perfectly formed tic-tac-toe board, the quaint streets that straddle three of Amsterdam's grandest canals form the city's most quirky neighborhood: the Nine Streets, or Negen Straatjes (www.theninestreets.com). In the heart of the western canal belt, only a few minutes' walk from the Royal Palace in Dam Square, the Nine Streets — easily Amsterdam's best shopping hub — is a charming mixture of designer boutiques, art galleries, vintage clothing stores, hair salons, gift shops and places to eat and drink.

On these historic brickwork lanes, the building facades represent the beauty and heritage of the Golden Age of the Netherlands in the 17th century. But behind the shop doors lies an array of specialty items, art and design, reminding visitors of the city's blend of things simultaneously historic and modern.

Before becoming an art gallery, Galerie de Salon (Wolvenstraat 13; 31-20-624-6058; www.galerie-de-salon.nl) was a barbershop. In 2000, the owners, Herman Deen and his wife, Marianne Sikkes, reshaped the salon, converting the back half into an art gallery, which has a new exhibition of contemporary art every six weeks. Deen is both a hairstylist and an artist, but Sundays are purely for art —no haircuts.

Enjoy an espresso or a glass of prosecco at Spoiled Denim Bar (Wolvenstraat 19; 31-20-626-3818; www.spoiled.nl), while waiting for sales help, or contemplating the choice among Dutch Bluebloods, Swedish Nudies or Levi's. With many brands and styles to choose — light or dark, skinny or bootcut — jeans there range in price from 100 euros ($150 at $1.50 to the euro) to 450 euros.

For pop art in myriad forms, step into Mendo (Berenstraat 11; 31-20-612-1216; www.mendo.nl), a high-concept bookstore and art gallery. Peek in between the thick tomes of photography and architecture, where you'll find nooks of candy, music and umbrellas — all for sale. With its sleek space and pristinely propped displays, it's no surprise to learn that behind the retail operation is a bustling graphic design firm.

An icon of Dutch style and home design, the Frozen Fountain (Prinsengracht 645; 31-20-622-9375; www.frozenfountain.nl) houses a dynamic collection of contemporary furniture and practical yet wacky home accessories. Their "shop within a shop" display features Dutch creations like Claudy Jongstra's textile designs; modern ceramics from Royal Tichelaar Makkum; and Piet Hein Eek's inspiring furnishings made from scrap timber, leftover aluminum, old doors and window units.

A couture cult favorite, Van Ravenstein (Keizersgracht 359; 31-20-639-0067; www.van-ravenstein.nl), has the latest in Dutch and Belgian fashion. Women's wear by local designers, Viktor & Rolf, mix with the latest collections from Balenciaga, Givenchy, and the Belgians Dries van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester.

You'll come upon all sorts of culinary kitsch at What's Cooking (Reestraat 16, 31-20-427-0630; www.whatscooking.nl). From jam spoons and silk sari tablecloths to colorful market bags and disposable place mats with maps of cities around the world, there are enough gadgets there to help inspire your next dinner party.

Shopping often provokes hunger, so for a quick sandwich on freshly baked bread, stop in at Bertram & Brood (Reestraat 15; 31-20-423-1963). For an intense dose of homemade chocolates, cakes and tarts, stop in to Pompadour Chocolaterie, (Huidenstraat 12; 31-20-623-9554), where you can refuel on sugar and caffeine.

For a place to stay in the Nine Streets area, try the new Miauw Suites hotel (Hartenstraat 36; 31-20-717-3429; www.miauw.com), which opened last summer above its own exhibition space. The decor is vintage meets modern luxury in the hotel's two rooms and two suites (145 euros and 245 euros a night); the suites have a bedroom, a bathroom, a living room and an open-style kitchen.

(πηγή: www.iht.com, 18/2/2008)