Magical Mombasa

I have never before considered Kenya as a holiday destination and, having recently been there, I now wonder why not? A quick four hours from OR Tambo International Airport, Mombasa represents an easy and affordable destination.

"Jambo" is a Swahili greeting of welcome and one hears it frequently, from passers-by in the street to the super-friendly hotel staff. Nowhere have I ever felt more welcome than at the two destinations we visited on Kenya?s coast as part of a media tour.

Stepping off the plane into the muggy tropical air was a step back in time. From that first moment there was a distinct 'Out of Africa' feel but the friendliness and helpfulness of the airport staff and locals more than made up for it. Mombasa itself is surrounded by water and so our bus from the airport took us over a bridge, through Mombasa and then off the other side, allowing tantalising glimpses of a turquoise sea behind tall palms. The roads leave a lot to be desired and the journey was punctuated by having to stop at a major roundabout in central Mombasa for a herd of goats to finish crossing the road!

The history of the east coast of Kenya is interesting because of its importance as a trade route. The Portuguese took control of Mombasa towards the end of the 15th century and dominated the region until the 1700s. Two Arab dynasties followed and Arab rule lasted until the British government declared a protectorate over Kenya at the end of the 18th century. The Arabic influence can be clearly seen in the architecture and the predominance of Islam as the major religion of the region.

The Mombasa Serena

Our first port of call was the Mombasa Serena, a five-star hotel which is a favourite destination of many of the world?s rich and famous. We were met on arrival by welcoming staff offering coconuts, freshly drilled and with a straw in, delicious!

The Mombasa Serena Hotel lies stretched along the golden palm fringed sands of Shanzu beach. Waves lazily break over the outer coral reef, leaving calm and crystal clear warm water to explore. The hotel incorporates local architecture and the buildings meander through lush gardens of bougainvillea and Koi ponds.

The mood is relaxed yet slick. The service is professional and designed to ensure total relaxation. Recreational facilities include scuba diving, tennis, squash, windsurfing, deep-sea fishing, mini sailing and coral reef snorkelling. Visits to nearby Mombasa can be arranged. The hotel grounds stretch down onto the beach so one can stroll down for a swim or walk along the beach and explore.

The Serena Group is a hotel chain based in Eastern Africa with hotels in exotic destinations such as the Serengeti. The group has established a strong eco-policy which has an emphasis on enhancing the environment, preserving traditional global culture and enriching the local community.

Mnarani Club Resort

Our next stop was Mnarani Club Resort, based on an inlet about half an hour further north. It is situated on the cliffs of Kilifi overlooking the Indian Ocean and Kilifi Creek with a fantastic view out to sea and the most amazing rim pool. Visitors can walk down to a small beach with its own jetty. From here you can set sail on an Arab dhow, take out your own small boat, or just sit.

Each week the resort organises a beach barbecue here for its guests. Visits to Malindi Tsavo National park can be arranged. Evening entertainment includes Massai dancing, acrobats and much more.

The mood at Mnarani is relaxed with a staff determined to make sure that your stay is such that you come back again. Perfect for a family holiday with plenty to do for everyone and children can run free in relative safety. Snorkelling equipment is available, scuba diving, jet ski-ing and other water sports can be arranged and there are glass-bottom boats at nearby Malindi-Watamu Marine Reserve which offer a glimpse into an amazing underwater world.

Mnarani is a world of its own, complete with palm trees, breathtaking views, endless sunshine and exotic nights. This is a special place which will sweep you off your feet and touch your soul. The design is very attractive with plenty of cool open areas and comfortable couches to sink in to. The open plan veranda is an ideal place to meet up for an evening sundowner. Spa treatments are available on request.
Our stay at Mnarani included a day visit to the town of Malindi, much further north. The journey is quite long, due in part to the state of the roads, but extremely interesting as you pass through small villages with their simple make-shift shops selling local fruits and crops. One positive result of the lack of convenience and packed foods is that there is absolutely no litter anywhere.

The road runs along the east side of the huge Tsavo National Forest and my memory is of a kaleidoscope of lush forest, green fields, and friendly and helpful people. Malindi is a lively bustling town with a bit of a 'border post' feel to it. There are quaint shops filled with crafts, fabrics and local wood carvings. In the distance we caught glimpses of a group of Massai, standing proudly and tall in their red robes.

The Gede Ruins

On our return from Malindi to Mnarani, our coach stopped at the Gede Ruins. These intriguing ruins date from the late 13th and early 14th centuries and are extremely well preserved. It is thought that this bustling town, with its very sophisticated standard of living was abandoned because of a change in the course of the nearby river. The buildings of Gede were well laid out and those of the upper classes even included a system of flushing toilets using the tidal flow of water through the underlying coral. Excavation on Gede started in 1927 and the buildings include the Great Mosque.

All too soon our trip was over and it was back to Mombasa Airport. All that remained was to pick up a few souvenirs whilst waiting to board our flight back to Johannesburg. I have fallen in love with Kenya, with the warmth of the people and the beauty of the country and I can?t wait to go again.

(πηγή: travel.iafrica.com 25/2/2008)

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