At the Edge of the World's Highest Bungee Jump

Greetings from South Africa. Last week, we left off from my amazing safari up in Hoedspruit. The town is located in the northern part of South Africa and I was just 28 miles (45 kilometers) from the Mozambique border and 56 miles (90 kilometers) from Zimbabwe's. So cool. After the unforgettable animal encounters I shared with you last week, it was time to fly south to the coast and experience South Africa's Garden Route. Up for some fun in the sun? Hold on tight because we're in for some adventure. This week, we go zip-lining over the treetops and check out the world's highest bungee jump.

Hoedspruit to Johannesburg
To get to the city of George, I flew an hour back to Johannesburg International Airport (JNB) and changed planes for the two-hour flight to George. I guess the folks at JNB realize that security in Hoedspruit is a joke because they make passengers go through security again. Would you believe that I passed through the Hoedspruit metal detectors with everything in my pockets (phone, camera, coins ...) and didn't take anything out of my laptop bag and still, not a single beep? Talk about things that make you go hmmm ... On a positive note: The Hoedspruit airport is decorated like an African safari camp and they sell really tasty hot ham and cheese sandwiches for 18 Rand (US$2.60). But the bottled water tastes terrible so buy a soft drink instead.

Johannesburg to George
The 643-mile flight to George (GRJ) was on a 70-seater Dash 8-Q400 series twin-engine turboprop. The flight was smooth, the flight attendants passed out free sandwiches and the landscape below during the last 15 minutes of the flight was picturesque. I just pressed my nose against the window and gazed out. I witnessed the low clouds rolling in as they covered the base of the mountains, just like a blanket, leaving the mountaintops exposed so they could breathe.

The Garden Route
Dave Griffiths, who owns and runs Outeniqua Adventure Tours, met me at the airport with his wife Cheryl. Dave is a knowledgeable guide and more importantly, an excellent driver. And, as you'll see in the video below, Dave has a great voice, which made listening to his stories a real pleasure. My first question for Dave was, "What exactly is the Garden Route?" He said most people think it's because there are lots of gardens but it's really because so much grows here, since this area gets the most rainfall in South Africa. The Garden Route is a very popular and scenic stretch of the southern coast of South Africa. It goes from Mossel Bay in the Western Cape to Storms River. And when you get off the plane, you can immediately feel the difference in the temperature. Going south in the southern hemisphere is like going from Costa Rica to Los Angeles in April. The coast has a maritime climate with mild to chilly winters and moderately hot summers. Outeniqua Adventure Tours; tel. +27 (0) 44 871 1470. (Here's a scan of their business card)

Knysna
We drove 44 miles (72 kilometers) east from George to the town of Knysna (pronounced NIZE-nuh). We took N2, which is the main coastal highway of South Africa and travel time took just under an hour. Knysna has become quite the destination for tourists, seniors in particular. You're sure to run into a lot of British ex-pats. Knysna is mostly built on the northern shore of a large warm-water estuary that opens up to the ocean. There are two large headlands on either side, which are known as "The Heads". They are infamous for their unpredictable waters, which have caused many a shipwreck.

Pezula Resort Hotel
I was fortunate enough to be checking into the nicest hotel in the area -- the luxurious Pezula Resort. It's a member of The Leading Small Hotels of the World and this place opened up in February 2005. You'll find 78 incredible suites in freestanding, two-tiered villas (four per villa). The villas are linked to the main building by manicured pathways and are accessible either by foot or by battery- operated golf cart. After taking one look at these killer rooms, each with a modern African decor, you'll understand why Pezula wins lots of awards, including a spot in Conde Nast Traveller UK Edition's Readers' Travel Awards for the Top 20 Overseas Leisure Hotels.

My Room
The owner of Pezula is a South African man who made his money in America by inventing the photocopy sorter. Now why didn't I think of that? The hotel is eco- friendly and has the most comfortable king-sized bed with Egyptian cotton linen sheets that are so soft, you don't want to do anything but lounge naked. On top of that, they offer a pillow menu. In each room there's a fireplace, a 28" flat screen TV, a huge marble bathroom with a separate shower and a modern oval shaped tub. The rooms are practical, too. They have international plug adaptors, cordless telephones, heated bathroom floors and tissues by the bed and bathroom. Don't you just hate having to get out of bed in the middle of the night to blow your nose?

Is This San Diego
When I opened up the blackout curtains in the morning, I thought I was looking out over San Diego Bay, not the Knysna lagoon. The view is so similar and the town has an identical feel to some of San Diego's suburbs. Bizarre, I know. My only complaint about the rooms is that the free wireless Internet access they offer was terrible. I even tried logging on in another room, in another part of the resort, and I had the same result. I was told that they are switching providers to alleviate this problem, which is great news for future guests. I also wasn't a huge fan of Zachary's, the hotel restaurant named after the owner's dog. Though the breakfast buffet was in incredible, the dinner menu just didn't do it for me. But then again, I'm a finicky eater. I don't eat veal, lamb, mushrooms, goat cheese or much seafood. What can I say? I know what I like and what I don't.

Pezula Spa
My friends all told me that some of the most beautiful women in the world hail from South Africa (ahem ... Charlize Theron ... ) and I have to say, there's no shortage of them working at Pezula. Not only are the women good-looking, but they understand customer service, too. And that couldn't have been more apparent than in the spa. I signed up for a one-hour massage and before going in to shed my drawers and don my robe, I asked the receptionists about the custom here. I didn't want a repeat of my experience in France. I told them what happened there and after they laughed their pretty heads off, they confirmed that I wouldn't be required to put on any paper underwear here. Phew!

Feel That Breeze
I strolled out of the unimpressive men's locker room wearing what must have been the world's shortest robe. I had a feeling that this was a mistake because the robe didn't even reach my knees and I could feel a breeze, well ... where I shouldn't have. I was feeling more naked than actually being naked, if that's possible. I took baby steps out to the reception area and noticed a woman waiting for her treatment, but she was wearing a robe that reached her ankles. Hmmm ... I approached the staff and asked if I was on Candid Camera. I could tell they were relieved to finally let out their laughter and say, "Oh, the short robe must have snuck into your locker by accident!" Sure it did.

The Indian Ocean
After my massage, I didn't feel like playing a round of golf on Pezula's renowned golf course. Instead, I took a tour of the hotel's brand-spanking-new honeymoon suite, called the castle. It was a 15-minute drive through the private Pezula Estates development. Even Roger Federer is building his dream house here. Like Roger's house, the castle has unbelievable views of the Indian Ocean, which is just steps away. BTW: Did you know that the Indian Ocean is much warmer than the Atlantic? But don't plan on swimming at this beach. It's way too rough. Pezula Resort; tel. +27 (0)44 302 5332.

Storms River
My next stop was Storms River and from Pezula, the drive is roughly an hour and 15 minutes. It's an easy trip as we hugged the coast for most of the way before heading inland into the mountains. Storms River is a small village, which I found to be a mix of California's Old West and Rotorua, New Zealand. The town functions as the gateway to the Tsitsikamma National Park and it's an eco-destination packed with adventurous and daring activities including the world's highest bungee jump.

World's Highest Bungee Jump
Believe me, one day I hope to muster up the cojones to bungee jump but when I do, you can be dang sure it will never be off the Bloukrans Storms River Bridge. These people are nuts and just watching them plummet from the viewing point made me anxious. What makes this 216-meter (708 feet) fall special is that the Guinness Book of World records claims this as the world's highest bungee jump. The worst part is that the daredevil jumpers don't even go all the way down, just about two thirds of the way. So when they're done bobbing like a yo-yo, they hang upside down from their ankles until a modern day Spiderman lowers himself down and gets the elated jumper harnessed for the hoist up. Is that gnarly or what? It costs 580 Rand and surprisingly, there's no shortage of people lined up for their turn. The wait is usually about two hours. Face Adrenalin also offers a bridge walk (50 Rand) and a flying fox (a zip line to the center of the bridge). See FaceAdrenalin.com for specifics.

Stormsriver Adventures
From the crazy bungee jump to the Tsitsikamma Village is less than a 15-minute drive. The main outfitter in town is Stormsriver Adventures. The owners have been rightly commended for their environmental and community work; they are a professional adventure and activity company based in the heart of the Tsitsikamma Forest supporting poverty relief programs. Their most popular attraction is Africa's first canopy tour. Here's an example: They charge 395 Rand for the canopy tour. The owner told me they could get 395 Rand without including a light lunch (sandwiches, hamburgers or salad) but by doing so, it gives 10 more people jobs, which in turn feeds 60 more people in the local village.

Canopy Tour
After lunch, my team and I suited up for the canopy tour, also known as zip-lining. Then we jumped in the bus for the seven-minute ride to the first slide. I've done zip-lining once before in Costa Rica (where the activity originated) and even though I was scared as all get out, it was quite an experience. The one I did in Costa Rica had 18 slides while Stormsriver has just ten. I figured it would be a piece of cake. Wrong!

Don't Be Chicken
The guides are young, enthusiastic, articulate, bright locals who are a joy to be around. They take their jobs seriously and do a good job stressing safety. In fact, I felt much more secure here than in Costa Rica because here, they use two wires and three safety catches. The first two slides were short but the third was fairly long and high, about 30 meters. Our guide announced that if anyone wanted to chicken out that this was the last chance since they have a short Chicken Slide that goes back to base camp. I seriously contemplated taking it but when I mentioned this to my friends, they blocked the path and said no. I don't know what happened but the fear just kicked in and my leg began shaking uncontrollably. It would have been the perfect time to audition for a Michael Jackson video but instead, I was preparing to zip from tree to tree like Tarzan. I was so scared that I literally hugged the tree that I was standing next to, 100 feet from the ground.

Fear is Temporary
I took a deep breath and realized that there were a lot of cameras pointed at my face, including the Stormsriver photographer who charges only 120 Rand for his time and excellent DVD. I didn't want to look like a wimp or have a video of me going down the Chicken Slide show up on the Internet, so I sucked it up and thought of the slogan I saw on one of the T-shirts in the Face Adrenaline gift shop ... FEAR is temporary, REGRET is forever. And you know what? I actually felt my fear subside around the fifth or sixth slide. It was remarkable. All of a sudden, I was a new man, pumped to go down the next one, which was the longest (100 meters). You'll see it all in my eyes when you watch the video below, but don't let me fool you completely ... I was still a little freaked out standing on the wobbly, see-through platforms. But they weren't as scary as the ones in Costa Rica. They are also just as eco-friendly; they didn't put one nail into a tree when setting up the tour. The whole thing took two and a half to three hours and the guides also told us all about the magnificent Tsitsikamma indigenous rainforest, the impact it has on visitors and what we might see. We saw a 600-year-old tree but no monkeys or snakes ... thank God.

Protea Hotel Tsitsikamma Village
Just 50 yards down the road from the Stormsriver Adventures office is the Protea Hotel Tsitsikamma. Protea is a major chain in Africa. The three-star Protea Hotel Tsitsikamma is a family-owned and managed hotel. It was established in 1946 but the main building dates back to 1845. The property consists of 49 freestanding rooms, village-style, where each cottage is individually decorated and has its own garden matching the specific colonial building style found in the Garden Route. The grounds and architecture made me feel like I was in Fiji or New Zealand. My room was cute and clean and came with a TV, phone and plugs for both South African and European converters. The shower was on the small side and the walls were thin but I still loved it ... even being awakened at 4:30am by roosters. FYI: There was no wireless Internet. Rates begin at 288 Rand per person. Protea Hotel Tsitsikamma, Darnell Street, Storms River, South Africa; tel. +27 (0) 42 281 1711.

Dinner at De Oude Martha Restaurant
At night, the temperature dropped, just like it does back home in Southern California. I ate at the hotel's only restaurant, De Oude Martha Restaurant. It had a French flair with a New Orleans feel: orange walls with wood paneling and low lighting. The dinner buffet served up traditional home cooked South African food like sweet carrots, chicken, fish, salad, bland pasta, string beans, brown bread, chocolate coffee mouse, bread pudding and ice cream.

Tsalanang Bed & Breakfast
Travelers are typically curious about life in townships and often want to experience it and help in some way. One way to help is to stay at a township Bed & Breakfast or going on a township tour. I checked out both. The Storms River 470 House Township is just a 10-minute walk from the Protea Hotel. I met with Geraldine (Gerri) Damans who owns, runs and lives at the Tsalanang B&B with her husband Mart, her six-foot-some white Dutch husband and their child. The house is clean costs 125 Rand per person for one of the three rooms she rents out. Breakfast and dinner are offered. What makes this place special, apart from the fact that it's right in the township, is that Gerri is the only black B&B owner in the area. Tsalanang B&B (The website is not working but here's a scan of her business card). Email: gerri@tsalanang.co.za.

Township Tour
Gerri also offers daily one-hour township tours for 50 Rand. I had no idea what the township tour would be like or how my friends and I would be received. However, everyone we walked by was so friendly (especially the children) and some residents even waved to us from the couches in their homes. Gerri told us that people living in the township earn an average of 600 Rand a month. That's it. But one of the locals has taken advantage of Gerri's tours by selling his beautiful wire art from his front yard. We stopped by and cleaned him out.

Tsitsikamma National Park
You can't visit Storms River without paying a visit to The Tsitsikamma National Park. The place is just jaw-droppingly beautiful. No wonder it's South Africa's second most popular national park after Kruger. This is where many South Africans spend there whole holiday. The park has a wide variety of accommodations from camping to oceanside cottages, all at affordable prices. Just having lunch on the deck and watching the waves pound against the jagged rocks is worth coming here for but there's a lot more, too. There are hiking trails of all lengths from 30 minutes to six days. There's even a suspension bridge but it was closed when I was there due to the high seas. Most hikes are unguided but if you have a group of more than 10 people you can book a guide for a small fee, to tour you around and tell you about the history and ecology of the area. That's what we did. Of course I had to ask the guide if there were any snakes. He nonchalantly replied that yes, they have two snakes, both are deadly but only one is aggressive. Was that supposed to make me feel better? Our short, easy hike lasted 45 minutes and we reached the top in 15 minutes. The views were inspiring and it perfectly capped off another adventurous week in South Africa. Tsitsikamma National Park; day passes for foreign adults cost 40 Rand. For more prices, see their tariffs list.

Johnny Jet has been featured over 1,000 times in major publications, including USA Today, Time, Fortune and The New York Times, and has appeared on ABC, CBS, CNBC, MSNBC, NBC, FOX News Channel, and PBS. JohnnyJet.com has been named "one of the top best money-saving web sites for travel" by Budget Travel Magazine, while the L.A. Times calls it "one of the top 10 essential travel resources on the internet." In the May 2007 issue of Outside Magazine, Johnny Jet was touted for having one of the world's best "dream jobs". Every week Johnny hosts a "travel website of the week" for several radio stations around the country, he writes weekly for Frommers.com and he has written for USAToday, The Boston Herald and Coast Magazine. Sign up today for Johnny Jet's free weekly travel newsletter at www.johnnyjet.com.

(πηγή: www.frommers.com, 1/2/2008)