Affordable Europe: Madrid

Although the cost of living in Madrid has risen in recent years, it is still easy to explore the Spanish capital without depriving yourself of small indulgences. This is, after all, a place where you can order a good bottle of Rioja for less than 12 euros at many fine restaurants.

Where to Eat Cheaply

There are two ways to dine in Madrid: seated before a white tablecloth or perched on a wooden stool at a noisy tapas bar. In the first category, it is hard to beat La Finca de Susana (Arlaban, 4; 34-91-369-3557), continuously packed with trendy Spaniards. It serves Spanish Mediterranean dishes like black rice with squid, salt-encrusted dourade and hot leek tart in a minimalist, nonsmoking dining room. Arrive by 8:30 p.m. to get a table. Dinner for two, with wine and an elaborate dessert, is about 40 euros, about $50, at $1.24 to the euro. For a memorable meal of hearty tapas, try the warm boiled octopus, steamed mussels or other specialties from northern Galicia at rustic Maceiras tavern (Huertas, 66; 34-91-429-5818). Dinner for two, with wine, averages 25 euros. To save on meals in Madrid restaurants, order the "menu del dia," when offered. This prix-fixe lunch includes three courses and a drink and can cost half as much as ordering a la carte.

Lodging for Under 100 Euros

Several stylish hotels in Spain's new Petit Palace chain (www.hthotels.com) drop their rates to as low as 85 euros on low-occupancy days. But for a deal year round, try the central, family-run Hotel Plaza Mayor (Atocha, 2; 34-91-360-0606; www.h-plazamayor.com), which opened in 1997 next to the Plaza Mayor. The 34 air-conditioned rooms are clean and contemporary with marble baths. A standard double is 79 euros.

Best Deal on a Cultural Event

The city's many flamenco bars offer weekly performances that are less expensive and more authentic, many would argue, than the tourist-packed shows at the traditional tablaos. The Sala Juglar (Lavapies, 37; 34-91-528-4381, www.salajuglar.com) features young flamenco dancers on Sunday nights with a five-euro admission. Well-known singers belt out the yearning cante jondo on Tuesday nights for 18 euros. Cardamomo (Echegaray, 15; 34-91-369-0757; www.cardamomo.net) has jazz-flamenco jam sessions on Wednesday nights. Admission is free. From May 30 to June 11, the government-sponsored Suma Flamenca festival (www.sumaflamenca.com), featuring Enrique Morente, Carmen Linares and other flamenco stars, is also good value. Tickets are 20 to 25 euros.

Best Things to Do Free

An after-dusk stroll through Spain's nightlife capital is a free spectacle. The people-watching is at its finest, and lights bathe the historic buildings and fountains, adding the glamour missing by day. For the best lighting effects, start at the Cibeles Fountain, walk up Calle Alcala to the bustling Puerta del Sol (watch your wallet) and continue along the Calle Arenal to the glowing Royal Palace. Or detour to the Plaza Mayor, ablaze with outdoor cafes.

Best Money-Saving Tip

You can save up to 65 percent on the price of a double room at participating hotels with Bancotel vouchers (34-91-509-6122; www.bancotel.com). The vouchers are 50 euros each, and they are sold in books of five. Some moderately priced chain hotels accept a single 50-euro voucher a night. Upscale lodgings require two or three.

(πηγή: www.iht.com, 23/4/2007)