Affordable Europe: Rome

Rome is quickly earning a reputation as one of Europe's most expensive cities. When the euro went into circulation in 2002, prices jumped sharply, a fact made worse for Americans by the falling dollar. That said, it is still possible to enjoy la dolce vita without emptying your bank account.

Where to Eat Cheaply

With its many trattorias, the Testaccio neighborhood is the best place to find cheap, authentic Roman cuisine. Try Trattoria Da Oio (Via Galvani, 43/45; 39-06-578-2680). The Roman-style artichokes and rigatoni alla carbonara are among the best in the city. Dinner for two, with wine, is about 40 euros (just under $50 at $1.24 to the euro). Reservations recommended. Closed Sunday.

Lodging for Under 100 Euros

In recent years, hotels in Rome have approached New York City prices, and you'll be hard-pressed to find anything decent for less than 100 euros a night. But there are some deals to be found, such as at the Hotel Rosetta (Via Cavour, 295; 39-06-4782-3069; www.rosettahotel.com), in the lively Monti neighborhood. Sure, it's spartan (tile floors and no air-conditioning or breakfast), but the location is great: the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and a Metro station are all minutes away on foot. It's clean and quiet, and each room comes with a TV and a fan. Doubles are 85 euros a night, even in high season. Or avoid hotels altogether by renting an apartment. You'll save hundreds of dollars. The Web site of the Bed & Breakfast Association of Rome, www.b-b.rm.it, is user-friendly and features more than 100 apartments and B & B's, all at reasonable prices.

Best Deal on a Cultural Event

Many of Rome's most stunning churches and palazzi are regularly the sites of free or low-price classical music performances. Among the best of these is the concert series in the Borromini Sacristy of the Sant'Agnese in Agone church in the Piazza Navona. There, every Sunday at 8 p.m., you can enjoy music by the likes of Haydn, Chopin, Schumann or Mozart. Tickets are 12 euros; 40 euros will gain you access to five concerts. The current season runs to June 25.

Best Things to Do Free

Perhaps the best thing about Rome is that many of its star attractions are free and relatively close to one another. Begin your day by people-watching at the Trevi Fountain, then walk 10 minutes west to the Pantheon to gaze inside the building itself, ancient Rome's best-preserved architectural marvel. The tomb of the painter Raphael is also there. Just west of the Pantheon is the Piazza Navona, home to Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers. If you have any energy left, cap it off with a trip to St. Peter's Basilica, about a 25-minute walk. Admission lines are generally long, but the reward once you're inside is astounding. The Vatican Museums, which include the Sistine Chapel, are closed Sundays, except for the last Sunday of the month, when they are open free from 8:45 a.m. to 1:45 p.m. (but you must enter before 12:20 p.m.).

Best Money-Saving Tip

For food, explore the markets in the Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Testaccio, as well as the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino, a block east of the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. All have fresh produce, meat, cheese and fish, and they're open from about 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., every day but Sunday. (The Esquilino market has later hours.)

(πηγή: www.iht.com, 23/4/2007)