Affordable Europe: Lisbon

It's easy to vacation on the cheap in Lisbon, which remains very inexpensive by European standards. On the price-entertainment continuum, restaurants are reasonable, taxis are cheap, a memorable night out won't leave you broke, and churches are free. Mysteriously (and marvelously) chain stores like Zara charge less in Lisbon than they do in New York or Paris.

Where to Eat Cheaply

If you're spending a lot on dinner, then you're at the Michelin haunts. Otherwise, you're dining with the locals at Cantinho das Gaveas (Rua das Gaveas, 82-84; 351-21-342-6460), in the lively and young Bairro Alto neighborhood, where an authentic Portuguese meal with wine costs less than $25, at $1.24 to the euro. The octopus with rice is especially lovely. Dinner for less than 15 euros a person? No problem at Brusketta (Rua Sao Felipe Nery, 12-14; 351-21-388-3860), a sleek, barrel-ceiling restaurant that specializes in open-faced sandwiches with innovative tapaslike toppings. Afterward, park yourself at a nearby bar like Bedroom (Rua do Norte, 86; 351-93-730-5866).

Lodging for Under 100 Euros

Pensao (inns) are the best bet for inexpensive stays. Find one that's still run by the woman of the house for the added bonus of Old World granny charm. Pensao Casa de Sao Mamede (Rua da Escola Politecnica, 159; 351-21-396-3166) is just such a place: clean, charming and conveniently situated near Principe Real. Singles from 65 to 75 euros a night.

Best Deal on a Cultural Event

You'll see lots of ads for fado, the melancholy Portuguese folk music. Don't bother; most shows are cliche, touristy and overpriced. But for 5 to 20 euros, the Portuguese Symphony Orchestra has performances at the Centro Cultural de Belem (Praca do Imperio, 351-21-361-2400; www.ccb.pt). Admission to national museums and monuments costs around 3 to 5 euros — and they're free on Sundays until 2 p.m.

Best Things to Do Free

Walk. Everywhere. Just bring comfortable shoes to navigate the hills and cobblestones. For the best views of the city, start in Bairro Alto, cross over to Chiado along Rua Garrett, down to the pedestrian-only Rua do Carmo and up the steep hill to Castelo de Sao Jorge. (Yes, the bridge that spans the River Tagus does resemble the Golden Gate.) To finish your tour, stroll to Alfama, the city's oldest and best-preserved neighborhood, which still bears traces of its Arab past. Or, if you're feeling lazy, simply hop the vintage No. 28 tram for the same effect.

Best Money-Saving Tip

You'll be hard-pressed to break the bank in Lisbon unless you go on a shopping spree. Limit your spending (and the hassle of extra carry-on baggage) and buy only one gorgeous Portuguese tile (azulejo). Then photograph the rest. Buildings in Lisbon are remarkably well-preserved, clean, and beautiful; even an amateur will take amazing pictures that make for excellent, frame-ready souvenirs.

(πηγή: www.iht.com, 23/4/2007)

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